Juneau to Sitka!

June 24 – July 9

As you may have noticed, we’re a couple weeks behind on the blog. We’ve been so busy living our dream lately, we haven’t made time to write about it! But don’t worry—we’re happy and healthy and having the time of our lives. J

So many fantastic adventures to fill in later, but here’s a quick synopsis of the last two fun weeks:

We visited Juneau where we fell in love with their kind, friendly people. We anchored in tranquil little coves and bays. Our permit request for Glacier Bay was denied, but we discovered beautiful alternatives off the beaten track, like Fern Harbor and Taylor Bay at the seat of Brady Glacier. Large sandy beaches, turquoise glacial waters, whales, sea otters, sea lions, and grizzlies—this place felt absolutely wild! Definitely one of our favorite spots. A highlight of our entire trip.

We met open ocean again and surfed in high winds and following seas. We motored through the narrow, rocky, winding labyrinth of Mirror Harbor on the west side of Chichagof Island and soaked in White Sulphur Springs nearby.  

We celebrated our 6-year wedding anniversary in Sitka. We visited Alaska Raptor Center, where injured raptors are given medical care, rehabilitated, and released, and The Fortress of the Bear, where orphaned bears are given a second life. So cool.

PHOTOS

Juneau (Dzánti K'ihéeni)

Juneau

Dave checks the rigging

Harris Harbor from the top of our mast

Lots of ravens!

Mendenhall Glacier (see two previous posts) from Auk Bay

Mirror Harbor/ White Sulfur Springs

So much kelp at the entrance! We (well, I) got us stuck and then luckily unstuck.
A story for another day... 

Very narrow passage into Mirror Harbor, but worth it, especially if you have good charts.

Dave's muddy shoes

Swing on the trail

Outer pool in foreground

Inner tub 

A sailor's life is so tough.

Back through the labyrinth of rock

Kimsham Cove

Sailing

Brady Glacier (Sit' Tein: Big Glacier) and Fern Harbor (Eenaa X'atán: Spruce Root Scraper):

Anchorage in Fern Harbor, totally secluded

Lots of trash washed up on the beach. Also, bears are fierce!

More beach!

So much beach!

Bear prints

We were trying to hike to the glacier but decided to turn around when we saw fresh, steaming bear scat
(not pictured, you're welcome). 

Fog back at the main beach

Sit Tein

Sitka (Shee Atika)

Sitka Harbors

Compulsory photo of St. Michael's Cathedral

Sarah Williams: an Athabaskin artist-in-residence at the Sitka Historical Park's visitor center;
currently making moccasins; absolutely lovely to talk with. 
She made Oprah a beaded glasses case and gave it to her when she visited Sitka last year.

Sarah still regrets that she didn't put her name and contact information in the case.

Oprah, since I know you're reading this, now you know how to find the artist. :)

 Sarah is from Fort Yukon on the Yukon River. Commercial overfishing and overharvesting has been detrimental to her community. It had lived on salmon for countless generations until recently.
In the last couple years, no salmon has made it that far inland.

Alaska Raptor Center

Flight Training Center for those in rehabilitation

Kiley has been deemed unfit to be released. Now she's part of the teaching staff...(Kiley is the raptor.)

 
   

Same with Spirit

Bears are so ferocious at The Fortress of the Bear!

Or not. :) Killisnoo, just chilling.

Toby's so smart that she knows some sign language. Here she signs "more" for more food.
Her people assure us she's well fed. :)

When bear cubs are orphaned, the state usually shots them;
otherwise, they won't learn how to properly "bear" and could become dangerous.

Fortunately, Toby, her brother, and the other grown orphans at Forest of the Bear have been given a second life, huge enclosures, a makeshift salmon run, and plenty of life-long medical care. Pretty rad.

Tomorrow morning, we’ll head out to Goddard Hot Springs for one last Alaskan soak. And then the overnight passages start! This will be our first overnight passage with only the two of us and Novi. We’re excited, and we’re a little anxious, but we feel prepared. Our boat is prepared. We can do this.