Sailing De Novo: qathet and the Sunshine Coast Part 2

We're now well into October, which means hiking and sailing in the cold and rain. But it also means good winds, open anchorages, empty trails, and cozy evenings inside with movies and wool socks. Shoulder season sailing is rad.

North of Atl'ka7tsem / Howe Sound

Our last post ended with the day of fifty tacks down Jervis Inlet. We anchored in Green Bay in Agamemnon Channel just before dark and left again early the next morning. Environment Canada forecasted a gale warning in the Strait of Georgia over the next couple days, so it was imperative to wait out weather somewhere secure. Once in Pender Harbour, we tucked into the public dock at salalus / Madeira Park. So deep in the harbor, we were unaffected by the storm.

After the rains cleared, we sailed south to the Thormandy Islands and anchored just south of Surrey Islands for the night. This small nook offered us full protection from the intense southerly blowing outside.

Rains and occasional blows at Madeira Park Public Dock

Quirky Madeira

Atl'ka7tsem / Howe Sound

Next, we explored Plumper Cove on Keats Island, an excellent hiking spot and another secure anchorage.

And then our new favorite area in this area: Chá7elkwnech / Gambier Island. Gambier is something special. Without any central road service, general store, or other service or utility, inhabitants are truly self-sufficient. Although the island was once known as a central logging and mining hub, it's now a refuge from the outside world. The Sḵwx̱wú7mesh Úxwumixw (Squamish Nation) and Gambier Island Conservancy have worked jointly to protect the wilderness and maintain the endless trails throughout the island. We stayed here for several days, anchoring first at the head of Port Graves and then again after leaving Gambier to meet family in Gibsons, returning and anchoring in Halkett Bay for another few days. We couldn't stay away.

Gibsons: quaint, lovely, beautiful. After nearly nineteen months with the border closed, we finally got to spend time with Dave's sister Cailin and her fiancé Anthony here...in person! Thanks Cailin for showing us around town, taking us on hikes, and helping us provision around town!

Plumper Cove on Keats

Cute community of Plumper Cove

Smooth, secure Port Graves

Wildheart Lookout on Gambier

Burt's Bluff on Gambier

Remnants of a logging bridge over Centre Creek

A friend we made while filtering water

Dave bravely cleaning the hull in October...while I safely stayed inside the heated cabin

This guy :)

Halkett Bay

View from Mt. Artaban, looking south

Inside a capsule attached to the highest point of the island; for all hikers to enjoy.
We're thinking a communal shot glass was a better idea before covid?

On and off rains at anchor

Cliff Gilfer Park, Gibsons

Cailin and Dave in Gibsons

Heading Home

I don't know how we pulled ourselves away from Gambier, but somehow we found ourselves in North Vancouver for a couple nights before finally clearing customs at Point Roberts. Goodbye British Columbia. Goodbye endless inlets through snow covered peaks. (And a 80% vaccination rate and universal healthcare, etc.). We miss you already, Canada.

But it was nice coming home. We visited some of our favorite seaside towns en route to Olympia and reconnected with friends and family in Seattle. We're now tucked into a new slip at Swantown Marina, and I had an emotional reunion with our cat. Thank you, Mom, for always watching Uma while we sail. 💗

First Narrows Bridge

North Vancouver

Mosquito Creek, North Vancouver

20+ knots on the nose yet only making 3 knots in this opposing current. Getting from North Vancouver to Point Roberts before customs closed at 5 would be challenging!